We found our train to Reims on platform 25 and located our seats in 1st class carriage of 2. Very nice. As you would expect, all information in French so we had no idea of anything. Comfortable seat however and we shared the carriage with business men in power suits and other foreigners like us. 
Outside the train is nasty, cold and foggy. It took no time at all to reach Reims, in fact took us by surprise when arrived at the station.
After a search, we found the Avis car rental and collected our car. Having since Paris drivers we opted for nil access. However we were surprised how respectful French country drivers are compared to their Paris counterparts. Country drivers actually stop at pedestrian crossings. Amazing!
We experienced driving in country France and it was generally ok. We are glad that we opted for automatic, one less thing to be concerned about when trying to navigate the wrong side of the road. Everything is opposite to us in Australia in the car except the pedals. Staying left in right lane takes some practice, Cos eventually got better at it by time we got to Verdun. More practice needed, as it is like learning to drive again. Nil excess was a good idea. Road signs are different but some reading up on them has helped.
We arrived at our booked hotel ( citotel Du Tigre - 2 star) in Verdun 3 hours before check in. We opted to walk 30 minutes into town centre to find lunch. Lunch was divine as only the French can do it. The pork rib roast was mouth wateringly good. Hospitality was great and they were very friendly when we explained that we were Australians.
The town is quaint and is what you would expect of fairytale style French town or village.
It certainly has more here than expected, given its World War One history.
The town was described as “hell on earth” in 1916. Do search on the internet for Battle of Verdun and look for photos and videos. You will understand.
Cos used to show photos of 1916 Verdun to his senior history students, with the reaction always the being the same, shock, horror, sadness, anger and pity. Modern Historians believe more people died in the small area of Verdun than any other battle in history. Verdun is about size of Stanthorpe in area, but 600 000 were killed or went missing (no body) between February and November 1916. The wounded in body and mind equaled another million on both sides. Despite the main battle in 1916, the death and destruction continued around Verdun to 1918 with another million dead, missing or wounded. To the French, Verdun is historically sacred ground which was the intense battle was fought so savagely. The Germans’ 1916 plan was to bleed France dry of men because they rightly knew that French pride wouldn’t let Verdun fall to the Germans. As result, the British, to help their French allies fast tracked their Somme offensive to drew away Germans from Verdun. It worked. At the Somme, the newly arrived ANZACs were thrown into the meat grinder that was the Somme.
Given the history, we really expected “1916 hell on earth” to be less beautiful.
Some of War sites given the scale and intensity of the battle are surprisingly intact.
The local cathedral (current structure built in 1735) was damaged in the 1916 battle and again in 1944. Consequently the cathedral is now no longer in use. The cathedral held the heart of the Bishop from 1575 - 1990).
The Germans in 1916, used the bell tower to zone in their considerable artillery. They fired over 1 million heavy shells in the first day of battle.
After a quick explore, we headed back to the hotel to check in at 5:15pm.
Before world war 1, Verdun was known for having some of it’s medieval walls, gates, and streets. Despite two wars, Verdun still has traces of its older history. We learnt today people have been living in Verdun for 3000 years, so look forward to learning more.
Our hotel is very quaint and is what we imagined an old French hotel to look like. Our room is basic but clean and comfortable. Our windows have external shutters. It is 2 stars hotel but we wanted to experience some living history (and it was cheap!) in Australia it would probably be rated a 3 star.
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