Day 19 (Wednesday 14th October 2026) travel

 A final travel day always feels a little bittersweet. There is the excitement of getting home, mixed with the realisation that the adventure is almost over. Fortunately, our last day in Japan provided one final opportunity for trains, mild panic, vending machines and a tiny bit of airport drama.

Kyoto to Narita: The Long Journey Home

Today we left Kyoto for Narita Airport near Tokyo to catch our flight home.

Thanks to packing most of our luggage the night before, we were able to enjoy a slightly later start. Well, that was the theory. Unfortunately for Cos, his internal body clock stubbornly insisted that 6:30am was a perfectly reasonable wake-up time, regardless of holiday status.

We checked out of the hotel at 10am and presented some small Australian souvenirs to the staff, who seemed genuinely delighted with the unexpected gifts. It was a lovely way to say goodbye.

With time to spare, we crossed the road to explore a huge nearby shrine before returning to the hotel and catching a taxi to Kyoto Station. After depositing our luggage in station lockers, we grabbed breakfast and supplies for the train journey.

Having successfully navigated Japan's railway network for three weeks, Cos remained deeply suspicious that success might suddenly end at any moment. Determined not to miss our train, we arrived at the platform at 12:50pm for a 1:30pm departure. Everything went smoothly, exactly as everyone except Cos expected. Cos was very pleased.

The journey took us to Shinagawa Station, where our next challenge awaited. We needed to locate a ticket machine, print our tickets, find Platform 13, and work out where Car 12 would stop. With just 40 minutes available, we launched into what felt like an Olympic event known as "Advanced Station Navigation".

After successfully redeeming our tickets and marching the length of what appeared to be the entire station, we reached the correct platform and the exact location of our carriage with 15 minutes to spare. The train was scheduled to depart at 4:24pm but, in a display of Japanese punctuality that still astonishes visitors, it arrived four minutes early.

While waiting, Melissa visited one of Japan's seemingly infinite number of vending machines and returned with drinks. Once finished, we carefully placed the empty containers into our plastic rubbish bag.

One of the more surprising aspects of Japan is the scarcity of public bins. The expectation is that you carry your rubbish until you find a suitable place to dispose of it, such as a convenience store, your hotel, or one of the mythical public bins occasionally sighted in the wild. Yet somehow it works. In three weeks of travelling, we have probably seen only a few dozen pieces of litter. There is undoubtedly much the rest of the world could learn from the Japanese approach.

There was, however, one piece of disappointing news. Our Qantas upgrade bid for the journey home was unsuccessful. A pity, particularly on a night flight. Still, we were travelling on an Airbus A330 and had selected good seats, so we were hardly facing unbearable hardship.

We arrived at Narita at around 5:30pm, checked our luggage and proceeded through security. Customs and security staff were efficient and friendly. Both our carry-on bags were selected for inspection, which suggests either excellent security procedures or that we simply look suspicious.

Melissa's offence was quickly identified: an iPad left inside her bag. As for Cos's man-bag, the exact cause of official interest remains unknown. The mystery may never be solved.

Once airside, we purchased lounge access and settled in for a pleasant evening of food, drinks and comfortable seating. After several weeks of travel, this felt like a thoroughly sensible investment.

The final drama arrived at the boarding gate.

Cos was quietly informed that there was an issue with his seat. Visions of involuntary upgrades, emergency seat changes, or perhaps being bumped from the flight altogether briefly flashed through his mind. Sadly, none of these exciting possibilities eventuated.

The problem was simply that the charging socket at his seat wasn't working, and the airline wanted to ensure he was aware before boarding.

So, despite momentarily thinking he'd been refused boarding, the reality was considerably less dramatic.

The flight departed on time, bringing an unforgettable Japanese adventure to a close and marking the beginning of a very long night's journey home.

Day 18 (Tuesday 13th October 2026) Sumo wrestling

After several days of treating Kyoto like an Olympic endurance event, today was officially designated as our “semi-rest day”. Given we'd been averaging somewhere between 15,000 and 18,000 steps a day, our legs were preparing a strongly worded complaint to management. So the plan was simple: no rigid schedule, a bit of wandering, and an evening of sumo and geisha entertainment.

Train station roof

2nd floor view at train station 

For once, we enjoyed a sleep-in and didn't emerge until the decidedly civilised hour of 10:30am. Refreshed and only slightly guilty about wasting precious sightseeing time, we set off on a reconnaissance mission to Kyoto Station. Calling it a train station feels a bit like calling Uluru a rock. It's a vast, bewildering masterpiece of engineering that appears to have been designed by someone who thought, "What if we combined an train station , shopping centre, observation deck and small city into one building?"

Roof top garden 

Roof top warnings 

Naturally, we got distracted exploring the station complex and eventually found ourselves more than ten floors up in the rooftop garden. The sheer scale of the place is staggering. Below us sat floor after floor of shopping, each level seemingly about the size of Grand Central in Toowoomba. If someone told me there was a hidden suburb inside Kyoto Station, I wouldn’t probably believe them.

Train station 

Having successfully confirmed that tomorrow's train departure should be achievable without requiring a search-and-rescue team, we headed to Yodobashi Kyoto for lunch.

This is where our polished international traveller image quickly fell apart.

Despite our best efforts, we must have looked completely bewildered while tackling our meal. A kind local gentleman wandered over to offer assistance, and the restaurant staff promptly arrived bearing spoons. Clearly, our chopstick technique had raised concerns. While slightly embarrassed, we accepted their concern with good humour and stubbornly continued excavating rice with chopsticks. To our credit, the spoons remained untouched throughout the meal. We may have looked incompetent, but we were determined incompetent.

After lunch, Yodobashi revealed another danger zone: an enormous section devoted to plastic models, hobby kits and tools. For anyone unfamiliar, this is essentially my (Cos) equivalent of Disney World. Cos was in absolute heaven, wandering amongst shelves of kits and shiny modelling equipment. Unfortunately, reality intervened. Our suitcases are already operating near maximum capacity, and purchasing more tools would likely have required leaving some clothing behind. The tools stayed. My (Cos) wallet survived another to live another day.

Shopping at “The Don’s”

Our final shopping mission was a visit to the local Don Quijote for those all-important last-minute gifts and souvenirs. There is something about Don Quijote that transforms sensible adults into slightly frantic treasure hunters. One minute you're buying souvenirs, the next you're wondering if your friends back home really need Japanese novelty snacks and cartoon-themed household items.

With shopping duties finally completed, we returned to the hotel shortly before 5:00pm. After a quick shower and change of clothes, we headed out again for the evening's entertainment: a sumo and geisha performance dinner show.

The three-hour experience included all-you-can-eat food and all-you-can-drink beverages, which is always a promising start. The show itself was excellent. We were treated to demonstrations of sumo techniques and traditions, along with opportunities for audience participation. Brave volunteers from the crowd were invited to challenge the wrestlers, creating a series of encounters that can best be described as "educational for spectators and brief for participants."

The audience was encouraged to choose sides and cheer for one of the two wrestlers. Naturally, we selected the correct wrestler, who went on to claim victory. Our expert sporting analysis remains available for consultation.

Dinner (Sumo food)

The geisha performance added a wonderful cultural touch to the evening and rounded out a thoroughly enjoyable experience.

We finally arrived back at the hotel just before 10:00pm, where the glamorous reality of travel reasserted itself. The next hour and a half was spent packing, repacking, weighing bags, rearranging souvenirs and trying to convince our luggage to twist the laws of physics. (Anyone got spare Tardis?)

As we zipped up the final suitcase, one mystery remained unresolved: still no word from Qantas regarding an upgrade. Our hopes remain alive, although perhaps not quite as optimistic as they were before the Don Quijote souvenirs found their way into our bags. Tomorrow, it's homeward bound.

Day 17 (Monday 11th October 2026) more adventures in Kyoto

Arashiyama Adventure: Romantic Trains, River Rapids and the Great Laundry Challenge

Today began with an unusually early start, even by holiday standards. Our goal was to reach Torokko Saga Station in Arashiyama in time for the 9:02 am departure of the famous Sagano Romantic Train, which travels through the scenic Hozugawa Gorge to Kameoka.

Not wanting to trust our navigation skills before our morning coffee, we left the hotel at 7:30 am and took a taxi. It turned out to be an excellent decision. The trip took around 30 minutes instead of the hour it would have required using public transport. Better yet, the hotel clerk not only organised the taxi but personally escorted us outside and gave directions to the driver in Japanese. It was one of those small moments that reminded us how extraordinary Japanese hospitality can be. In Australia, a hotel clerk might point vaguely towards the street and wish you luck.

Riding the Sagano Romantic Train

The weather could not have been better. A gentle cooling breeze made the morning pleasant, and by the time we reached the station the crowds were already building. The Sagano Romantic Train is one of Kyoto's most popular attractions, carrying visitors through the forested Hozugawa Gorge alongside the Katsura River. During autumn the surrounding hills explode in colour, while spring brings cherry blossoms, making it a favourite year-round attraction.

Map of the area we saw

Thankfully, we had purchased our tickets well in advance and were able to avoid the ever-growing queue. Looking at the number of people arriving behind us, this proved to be one of the smartest decisions of the day.

Sagano Romantic Train

Our seats were 16A and 16D in Car 4, both window seats. Unfortunately, our windows remained firmly shut. When purchasing tickets online, we somehow convinced ourselves that all the windows were closed. As it turned out, only Car 5 is completely open-air. Photography through glass is never ideal, but we still enjoyed excellent views of the river and surrounding forests throughout most of the journey.

If you've ever travelled on the Kuranda Scenic Railway near Cairns, you'll understand the appeal immediately. It's less about getting from A to B and more about enjoying the spectacular scenery along the way.

The trip took around 30 minutes, with a couple of stops where additional passengers joined the train. Across the aisle was an Australian family from Brisbane with three children who had arrived in Japan only three days earlier and still had two weeks of adventures ahead of them. Remarkably, despite Kyoto's size, we bumped into them two more times during the day. At this point we were beginning to wonder whether Kyoto was actually much smaller than advertised.

Ice Cream Before Exercise

Upon arriving at Kameoka Station, we did what any sensible travellers would do.

We bought ice cream.

Walkway to no taxi or shuttle bus 

Some houses we saw

Unfortunately, while concentrating on this important cultural activity, we somehow missed an announcement explaining that taxis and a shuttle bus were available to transport passengers to the nearby river cruise departure point.

By the time we wandered into the car park, ice creams happily consumed, there were no taxis and certainly no shuttle bus.

Two failed attempts to summon a driver using an app left us with only one option: walking.

The journey was approximately 2.5 kilometres and took around 35 minutes around rice fields, down residential streets and semi-rural landscapes. We maintained a brisk pace to ensure our 11:00 am booking remained intact and eventually arrived twenty minutes early. Success never felt quite so sweaty.

Rice fields 

Cruising the Hozugawa River

Our next experience was the famous Hozugawa River Cruise, a traditional river journey that has been operating for centuries. Historically, the river was used to transport timber and goods into Kyoto. Today, visitors travel the same route in traditional wooden boats from Kameoka back to Arashiyama.

After presenting our tickets, we received boarding passes and found our assigned boat. Each vessel is operated by three crew members: an oarsman plus two polemen who guide the craft through the river's twists, turns and rapids.

Their job looked exhausting.

Water levels were lower than normal, meaning more exposed rocks and a greater chance of collisions. The crew explained that the trip would likely take a little longer than usual due to the additional effort required to navigate the narrow channels safely.

As we quickly discovered, the crew possessed remarkable skill. Standing at either end of the boat, the polemen constantly adjusted direction and speed while the oarsman provided additional control.

The scenery was magnificent.

Japanese maples and pines

Some of the wildlife 

The river wound through a beautiful forested canyon, alternating between gentle stretches and lively rapids. We spotted turtles, water birds and plenty of dense forest. According to the crew, deer and monkeys also inhabit the surrounding hillsides, although they were clearly having a day off when we passed by.

Dad Jokes on the Water

The second oarsman appeared to have appointed himself as Chief Entertainment Officer (perhaps a less strenuous future role on Princess Cruise Line awaits him). 

Throughout the cruise he delivered a seemingly endless stream of jokes, observations and cultural puns to keep passengers entertained. Many would comfortably qualify as world-class dad jokes. Somehow the combination of spectacular scenery and questionable humour worked perfectly.

We were fortunate to be seated at the very front of the boat. This gave us uninterrupted views ahead and to both sides.

The downside?

We were also sitting in what could be described as the "Premium Splash Zone".

Every set of rapids sent cool sprays of water over the bow. Fortunately, the crew supplied plastic covers for our legs and bags. This system worked reasonably well, although one young British passenger (an 20s something) appeared determined to wrap the entire sheet around her legs while while at other times dangling those same legs along or over the side of the boat. As strategies go, it showed admirable optimism though the second oarsman would periodically splash her with the oar.

One crew member mentioned there were sixteen passengers aboard, though we never actually stopped to count. We were too busy avoiding getting soaked… we didn’t except minor splashes which was refreshing.

The Floating Convenience Store

One of the highlights came near the end of the cruise.

Suddenly another boat appeared alongside us selling barbecued meats, seafood, snacks and cold drinks. The barbecue hotplate was cooking a selection of sea food, beef and pork. 

Only in Japan could a floating convenience store seem perfectly normal.

The entire cruise was exceptional and is something I would strongly recommend to any visitor to Kyoto. Combined with the Sagano Romantic Train, it creates one of the best sightseeing days available in the region.

Crossing the Moon Bridge

Back in Arashiyama, we crossed Togetsukyo Bridge, whose name translates as "Moon-Crossing Bridge". Originally built during the Heian Period over 1,000 years ago, it remains the symbol of Arashiyama and offers beautiful views of the surrounding mountains and river.

Crossing the bridge 

After crossing, we found an excellent coffee shop where the staff explained the significance of the traditional fabric curtains hanging in many shop entrances. These are called noren and traditionally indicate that customers are welcome to enter. They often feature family crests, business names or decorative designs and have become iconic elements of Japanese streetscapes.

The Monkeys Win

Next on our list was Iwatayama Monkey Park.

After climbing the first set of stairs, we discovered an important detail that somehow escaped our attention during planning.

A walk to the Monkey park

Shrine at monkey park 

Leaving the Monkey park 

The monkeys live another twenty-minute climb up the mountain.

At that point our enthusiasm for wildlife observation diminished noticeably.

We admired the small shrine near the entrance, congratulated ourselves on reaching that far, and decided the monkeys could continue their day without our company.

We then returned to river level and rewarded ourselves with grilled beef and chicken purchased from food vendors along the riverbank. This seemed a far more sensible use of our remaining energy.

Mission: Shopping List

A reminder from our family informed us that souvenirs had not magically purchased themselves.

Apparently there were expectations.

Armed with a shopping list, we boarded trains back into central Kyoto in search of gifts, souvenirs and anything else that looked interesting.

CDB

CDB

Train station 

Kyoto's central shopping districts can be overwhelming. The crowds move with a density rarely seen in Australia. At times everyone proceeds at the speed of the slowest pedestrian, whether they have somewhere to be or not.

After about an hour we successfully completed our shopping mission and secured enough gifts to satisfy family expectations back home.

Hopefully.

Twilight in Gion

As evening approached, we made our way to Gion, Kyoto's famous historic geisha

Gion

Gion

17th century Samurai armour for Sale

Arriving at twilight proved perfect. Lanterns glowed softly along traditional wooden buildings, giving the area an atmosphere that feels transported directly from another era. Although Geiko (Kyoto's geisha) and Maiko (apprentice geisha) still work in the district, most visitors come to admire the preserved streets and traditional architecture.

The area was busy with tourists, but still incredibly beautiful.

Throughout Gion (and all over Japan that have seen), are uniformed traffic attendants that directed vehicles and pedestrians with illuminated batons, whistles and expressions suggesting they had absolutely no time for nonsense.

At one point we noticed an intriguing entrance hidden behind a traditional noren curtain. Remembering that these usually mean "welcome", we decided to investigate.

We took approximately three steps before a nearby attendant crossed his arms with military precision and firmly waved us away.

Apparently some welcomes are conditional.

Message received.

The Full Bus Experience

After several hours exploring Gion, our feet were demanding mercy, so we stopped for another excellent coffee before catching a bus back towards the hotel.

Japanese buses operate according to a fascinating principle:

There is always room for one more passenger.

And another.

And another.

Personal space gradually becomes a theoretical concept rather than a practical one. Fortunately, we were positioned near the front and escaped without having to fight our way through a densely packed crowd when our stop arrived.

In Japan, passengers usually enter through the rear door (and sometimes front) and exit through the front. Timing your escape correctly is important because buses don't spend much time waiting for indecisive travellers.

Kyoto Beer and High-Tech Laundry

Dinner that evening was at a Mexican-style cantina where the hospitality was outstanding. One staff member, who I suspect may have been the manager, noticed our seating arrangement and moved us to a much better table. During happy hour he also introduced us to several locally brewed Kyoto beers, all of which were thoroughly researched and sampled in the interests of international understanding.

On our way home 

Back at the hotel we faced one final challenge.

The laundry.

Japanese washing machines look less like household appliances and more like control panels for launching satellites. Armed with Google Translate and a healthy amount of guesswork, we successfully decoded the machine's instructions and completed the washing cycle without accidentally initiating a self-destruct sequence.

A victory is a victory.

It was only a ten-minute walk back from dinner, although our increasingly sore feet felt every metre. Tomorrow would be our final full day in Kyoto, with a few loose ends to tie up and a reconnaissance mission to Kyoto Station before beginning our journey to Tokyo and ultimately Narita Airport.

For now, however, it was time for a well-earned rest after one of the most enjoyable days of our Kyoto adventure.