Day 13 (Thursday 8th October 2026) Nagasaki

This was one of those travel days where events did not quite unfold as planned, yet everything worked out in the end. Looking back, the minor inconveniences of the morning quickly faded, replaced by a fascinating and memorable exploration of one of Japan's most historically significant cities.

Arrival in Nagasaki

This morning our cruise ship arrived in Nagasaki. Because we had visited South Korea the previous day, all passengers were required to clear Japanese immigration and customs before going ashore. Immigration officers were waiting in the cruise terminal, and everyone on board needed to be processed before beginning their day in port.

Our walking tour was scheduled to depart at 10:20 am, so we had planned a relaxed morning, including breakfast in our cabin before disembarking. Unfortunately, those plans changed when the ship conducted a crew emergency drill, meaning room service was unavailable.

Fortunately, we had both risen earlier than expected. At around 9:00 am, an announcement over the ship's loudspeaker informed passengers that Japanese immigration officials were waiting in the terminal for anyone who had not yet gone ashore. Realising the schedule had effectively moved forward, we quickly gathered our belongings and headed to disembark.

There was one final complication. Just as we reached the terminal, Cos realised he had left the excursion tickets in the cabin. A hurried return trip to retrieve them followed, along with another journey through the queues to rejoin Melissa shortly before immigration processing. Thankfully, this proved to be the most stressful moment of the day. On reflection the immigration process by in Japan and Korea are very well organised and always go quickly, very impressed.

Discovering Nagasaki by Tram and on Foot

The remainder of the day was both enjoyable and thought-provoking. Nagasaki feels very different from Hiroshima. Despite sharing the tragic history of being devastated by an atomic bomb during the Second World War, Nagasaki presents itself today as an attractive, liveable and distinctly urban city. Surrounded by hills and sheltered harbours, it possesses a character and atmosphere all its own.

Our shore excursion was titled "Experience Nagasaki as the Locals Do", combining a walking tour with travel on the city's public tram network. From the cruise terminal, we walked to a nearby tram stop and boarded one of Nagasaki's iconic streetcars. Travelling alongside local residents provided a glimpse into everyday life and offered views of neighbourhoods that many visitors might otherwise miss.

The tram carried us through the bustling city streets towards the Peace Memorial Park district, where many of Nagasaki's most important historical sites are located.

The Atomic Bomb Museum and Ground Zero

Our first major stop was the Atomic Bomb Museum, reached via the famous One-Legged Torii Gate, one of the city's most recognisable reminders of the bombing. The gate originally stood as a complete structure before the atomic blast destroyed one side, leaving the surviving section as a powerful symbol of both destruction and resilience.

The museum itself left a strong impression. Compared with Hiroshima's museum, Nagasaki's presentation is more graphic and confronting in places. Photographs, personal belongings and historical artefacts vividly illustrate the devastating human toll of the attack. While confronting, the exhibits are also highly educational, helping visitors understand the scale of the tragedy and its lasting impact on the city.

One of the most interesting observations was how Nagasaki's geography influenced the devastation. Unlike Hiroshima, which occupies a broad, relatively flat plain, Nagasaki sits within a valley surrounded by hills and mountains. Looking across a map of the city helps explain why the effects of the explosion differed so markedly. The surrounding terrain channelled and reflected the blast forces, intensifying destruction in some areas while shielding others.

Our guide explained that a surprising number of structures survived, often due to terrain or location. Particularly fascinating were a pair of ancient camphor laurel trees located near a shrine some distance from Ground Zero. Although badly damaged, the trees survived the explosion and continue to grow today. According to our guide, fragments propelled by the blast became embedded within the trees, with traces still visible many decades later.

Peace Memorial Park

We next visited Peace Memorial Park, located near the hypocentre of the atomic blast. The centrepiece is the impressive Statue of Peace, a 30-foot (approximately 9 metre) bronze monument dedicated to world peace and remembrance.

The park differs noticeably from Hiroshima's Peace Park. It feels less formal and less manicured, perhaps reflecting the distinctive landscape of the city itself. Among its memorials is the marker identifying Ground Zero, the point beneath which the bomb detonated approximately 500 metres above the ground.

One of the more unexpected discoveries in the Peace Park was Australia's contribution, the "Tree of Life: Gift of Peace" sculpture. Gifted by Indigenous communities from Maralinga and Yalata in South Australia, the artwork recognises the shared experiences of communities affected by nuclear events. The sculpture symbolises resilience, peace and friendship between Australia and Japan, and serves as a reminder of the importance of working towards a world free of nuclear weapons.

Standing at this site and reflecting on what occurred here in August 1945 is a sobering experience. The knowledge that tens of thousands of people were living and working in the surrounding streets when the bomb exploded gives a human dimension to the history that no photograph or textbook can fully convey.

Nagasaki Today

Nagasaki's modern story is also quite different from Hiroshima's.

In 1945, Hiroshima's population was approximately 300,000. Today it has grown to around 1.3 million residents and is one of Japan's major regional cities. Nagasaki, by comparison, had a population of roughly 200,000 in 1945 and today is home to around 300,000 people.

Part of the reason lies in geography. Hiroshima's flat terrain provides room for expansion, while Nagasaki is constrained by steep hills and narrow valleys. Historically, Nagasaki's economy was built around manufacturing and shipbuilding, industries that have declined or moved elsewhere in Japan. The city also faces the challenge of an ageing population, with around one-third of residents aged 65 or older. These factors make growth more difficult and can present challenges for younger families seeking affordable housing and employment opportunities.

Despite these challenges, Nagasaki remains a remarkably attractive city. The surrounding hills, harbour views, historic neighbourhoods and resilient spirit give it a unique character that distinguishes it from anywhere else in Japan.

Final Thoughts

Our visit to Nagasaki exceeded expectations. What began with a rushed start and a forgotten excursion ticket turned into one of the most interesting and reflective days of the cruise. The city balances remembrance with everyday life in a way that feels both authentic and moving.

While Hiroshima and Nagasaki will always be linked by history, each tells its story differently. Experiencing both cities has provided a deeper understanding of the events of 1945 and the remarkable recovery that followed.

Nagasaki is a city of resilience, remembrance and quiet beauty, and it is certainly a place we would happily return to in the future.

Day 12 (Wednesday 7th October 2026) Busan Korea

Today we visited Busan, we passed through Korean immigration and customs and boarded our bus to explore some of interesting Busan. 

We first, we headed to the impressive Songdo Sky Walk, a striking seaside promenade that curves gracefully like a dragon. Stretching nearly 1,190 feet out from the edge of Songdo Beach, the walkway offered stunning coastal views and plenty of photo opportunities. Walking above the sparkling water while feeling the sea breeze made for a truly memorable experience

Songdo Sky Walk

Songdo Sky

We loved spending a half day exploring some of Busan’s most iconic sights and getting a glimpse into everyday local life. Our adventure began at the colourful Gamcheon Culture Village, a hillside community founded by Korean War refugees in the 1950s. As we wandered through its maze-like alleyways, we admired vibrant houses decorated with artistic touches, from painted birds to whimsical dragonflies. Perched on a steep mountainside, it’s easy to see why this charming village is often called the “Machu Picchu of Busan.” The views from the Sky Garden were absolutely breathtaking and one of the highlights of our visit.

Gamcheon

Gamcheon

Gamcheon

To finish the day, we immersed ourselves in the lively atmosphere of Jagalchi Market, Korea’s largest seafood market. The bustling stalls, fresh catches and friendly vendors gave us a taste of Busan’s vibrant culture. We then explored nearby Gukje Market, where we browsed colourful souvenir shops and picked up a few keepsakes to remember this wonderful day in Busan. It was the perfect blend of culture, scenery and local experiences.

Jagalchi Market

Jagalchi Market

Gukje Market

On reflection about our visit to Busan, we were fascinated to learn that it is South Korea’s second-largest city and the country’s busiest port, located on the south-eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula. 

Once a small fishing village, Busan has grown into a vibrant city where modern skyscrapers sit alongside traditional markets, temples and fishing 

communities. Surrounded by mountains and the sea, it is famous for its beautiful beaches, fresh seafood and relaxed coastal atmosphere. As we explored its colourful villages, bustling markets and scenic waterfronts, we quickly discovered why Busan is considered one of South Korea’s most welcoming and enjoyable destinations. 

Day 11 (Tuesday 6th October 2026) Sea day to korea

Today was a delightful sea day as we continued our journey towards Korea.

Kanmon Strait

Kanmon Strait

Kanmon Strait

One of the highlights of the morning was passing through the spectacular Kanmon Strait, the narrow waterway separating the Japanese islands of Honshu and Kyushu. The strait stretches for around 18 kilometres and narrows to just 1 kilometre wide for much of its length, before widening at either end. Watching the coastline glide past from our balcony was a fantastic experience but in comparison to New Zealand’s Milford Sounds, it was a poor second. 

Breakfast in the Kanmon Strait

Part 1 of 6 of breakfast

To celebrate both our cruise and our birthdays, we had arranged a special balcony breakfast. What arrived was nothing short of a feast! There was so much food that we ended up grazing on it throughout the day while relaxing on the balcony and enjoying the ever-changing views as we sailed through the strait. It was a wonderfully indulgent way to spend the morning.

The day wasn't completely without drama. At one point, a coffee machine in the buffet area started smoking, which triggered a minor emergency response from the crew. Passengers were evacuated from the immediate area while the situation was assessed. Although we were three decks below, we could hear announcements over the ship's public address system as the crew responded with great care and professionalism. By the end of the day, that section of the buffet remained closed, suggesting the incident had produced a significant amount of smoke. Thankfully, it appears everything was handled safely and efficiently.

After our enormous breakfast, we remained in our cabin for what felt like a well-earned morning nap. Recovering from such a feast is hard work! Later, we took advantage of the sea day to catch up on some laundry and ironing, always a satisfying task when travelling for an extended period.

During the afternoon, we treated ourselves to some speciality ice cream before heading back to the cabin to prepare for the evening's Captain's Circle Cocktail Party. As members of the cruise line's loyalty programme, we've recently reached Platinum status, earning us an invitation to this special event.

The gathering was fascinating, particularly when we learned about some of the most dedicated cruisers onboard. Several guests had accumulated between 1,100 and 1,700 days at sea with this cruise line alone. That's an astonishing amount of cruising experience! By comparison, we've completed around a dozen cruises and estimate that we've spent about 80 days at sea across four different cruise lines. It certainly put our own cruising adventures into perspective.

Invite to Captains’s cocktail party

Captains cocktail party

Following the cocktail party, we enjoyed dinner at a Brazilian-style pop-up restaurant onboard, where we sampled a seemingly endless parade of delicious cuts of meat. It was the perfect way to round off an enjoyable day at sea.

Brazilian-style pop-up restaurant 

Brazilian-style pop-up restaurant 

As has become our evening routine, we finished the night with a quick nightcap at the Wheelhouse Bar before heading back to our cabin.

Tomorrow brings an early start as we arrive in Busan, South Korea, and we're excited to begin our new adventure. 

The Wheelhouse bar

Day 10 ( Monday 5th October 2025) a visit to Hiroshima

Hiroshima was one of those destinations that leaves a lasting impression, balancing moments of reflection with the simple pleasures of travel. 

Cruise terminal Hiroshima

Shipping near Hiroshima

Google translate becomes useful again

We began the morning in the best possible way, with breakfast delivered directly to our cabin. After a leisurely start to the day, we got ready and headed ashore. As our ship was docked in a working port, a shuttle bus was required to reach the local train station. 

Downtown Hiroshima

Typical street 

Typical street 

From there, we boarded a tram for the journey into Hiroshima city centre, a trip that took around an hour. Our first impressions of Hiroshima were much like those of other Japanese cities we have visited. The architecture in the urban areas is practical and functional, with rows of modern buildings that prioritise efficiency over ornamentation. It is often only on the outskirts that Japanese architecture begins to reveal more traditional and visually distinctive styles.

Hiroshima peace Park

Hiroshima peace Park - bell for the children 

80 years of regrowth Hiroshima peace Park

Bell to peace Hiroshima peace Park

 Our main destination was Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, situated near the hypocentre of the atomic bomb that devastated the city on 6 August 1945. Today, the park is a beautiful and peaceful green space, yet it is impossible to stand there without reflecting on the unimaginable devastation that once occurred. It is difficult to comprehend that this tranquil setting was, for a brief and terrible moment, a vision of hell on earth. The Japanese people have created a deeply respectful and moving memorial dedicated to the victims and the pursuit of 

peace. 

Atomic dome

Memorial mound - 70000 victims ashes buried 

Throughout the park, monuments and memorials remind visitors of the horrors of nuclear warfare while encouraging hope for a more peaceful future. One of the most poignant sites is the Atomic Bomb Memorial Mound, a large grass-covered knoll containing the cremated remains of approximately 70,000 unidentified victims. The location itself is significant, as the park occupies what was once Hiroshima's bustling commercial and residential heart. The area was completely destroyed by the blast and was later transformed into the Peace Memorial Park we see today, visited by more than a million people each year. Near the centre of the park stands the Memorial Cenotaph, an elegant arch-shaped monument sheltering a stone chest that contains the names of those who perished. The monument is carefully aligned so that visitors can see the Peace Flame and the A-Bomb Dome through its arch. Completed in 1952, the design symbolises protection and shelter for the souls of the victims. The Peace Flame burns nearby as a powerful symbol of remembrance and hope. It serves not only as a tribute to those who lost their lives but also as a reminder of humanity's ongoing desire for a world free from nuclear weapons. Another memorable feature of the park is the Peace Bell. 

Suspended within a simple open-sided structure, the large bell invites visitors to strike it as a prayer for world peace. Throughout the day, its rich and resonant tone can be heard echoing across the grounds, adding to the park's contemplative atmosphere.

To the girls school that was vaporised 

Atomic Dome 

 Perhaps the most recognisable landmark is the Atomic Bomb Dome. This skeletal structure miraculously survived the explosion and remains standing today in a carefully preserved state of ruin. Once known as the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, the building was designed by Czech architect Jan Letzel and completed in 1915. Its distinctive dome made it a notable feature of the city long before it became one of the world's most powerful symbols of the consequences of war. 

Memorial mound

The Peace Park is beautifully maintained and thoughtfully presented. While educational, it is also deeply emotional. The other significant learning was the gifts of water left by visitors which represented the dying request for water by the victims of the atomic bomb. The visit brought tears to Cos's eyes as he reflected on the immense human tragedy behind the memorials and what they continue to represent. While at the park, we encountered a friend and former colleague (Trish Mc) of Melissa’s just near the Atomic dome. Amazing given that she’s not on the same cruise as us which would’ve been remarkable enough! What are the chances of this happening? Perhaps we should buy gold lotto ticket on our return. 

Hiroshima bank that became a bakery survived the bomb

After leaving the park, we made our way to Hondōri Shopping Street, the vibrant heart of downtown Hiroshima. Stretching beneath a covered arcade, Hondōri is filled with shops, cafés, restaurants and entertainment venues. Unlike some of the more tourist-oriented shopping districts we have visited elsewhere in Japan, Hondōri felt very much like a place where local people come to shop, meet friends and enjoy everyday life. 

today. 

Hobby shop

Ramen booth

Lunch was at Ichiran Ramen, the famous tonkotsu ramen chain originating from Fukuoka. Dining at Ichiran is an experience in itself. Customers are seated in individual "flavour concentration booths", separated by wooden dividers designed to eliminate distractions and allow diners to focus entirely on their meal. Orders are completed on customised forms where diners can select everything from broth richness and garlic levels to noodle firmness and spice intensity. Meals are delivered discreetly through a small curtained opening, creating a uniquely Japanese dining experience that has become popular with both locals and visitors. 

Under cover shopping arcade

Shopping street 

The former bank

Following lunch and a little souvenir shopping, we retraced our route by tram back to the port. Before rejoining the ship, we passed through Japanese immigration formalities as we would be departing Japan's main islands later that evening on our way to Busan, South Korea. 

Dinner was enjoyed in the ship's Pacific Moon dining room, which provided a pleasant and relaxing end to the day. As has become something of a tradition, we finished the evening with a couple of nightcaps in the Warehouse Bar before heading back to our cabin for an early night. 

Overall, Hiroshima was a memorable and deeply moving destination. The city seamlessly combines remembrance and resilience, offering visitors both an important lesson from history and a glimpse of the vibrant, modern community that has flourished there today.