This was one of those travel days where events did not quite unfold as planned, yet everything worked out in the end. Looking back, the minor inconveniences of the morning quickly faded, replaced by a fascinating and memorable exploration of one of Japan's most historically significant cities.
Arrival in Nagasaki
This morning our cruise ship arrived in Nagasaki. Because we had visited South Korea the previous day, all passengers were required to clear Japanese immigration and customs before going ashore. Immigration officers were waiting in the cruise terminal, and everyone on board needed to be processed before beginning their day in port.
Our walking tour was scheduled to depart at 10:20 am, so we had planned a relaxed morning, including breakfast in our cabin before disembarking. Unfortunately, those plans changed when the ship conducted a crew emergency drill, meaning room service was unavailable.
Fortunately, we had both risen earlier than expected. At around 9:00 am, an announcement over the ship's loudspeaker informed passengers that Japanese immigration officials were waiting in the terminal for anyone who had not yet gone ashore. Realising the schedule had effectively moved forward, we quickly gathered our belongings and headed to disembark.
There was one final complication. Just as we reached the terminal, Cos realised he had left the excursion tickets in the cabin. A hurried return trip to retrieve them followed, along with another journey through the queues to rejoin Melissa shortly before immigration processing. Thankfully, this proved to be the most stressful moment of the day. On reflection the immigration process by in Japan and Korea are very well organised and always go quickly, very impressed.
Discovering Nagasaki by Tram and on Foot
The remainder of the day was both enjoyable and thought-provoking. Nagasaki feels very different from Hiroshima. Despite sharing the tragic history of being devastated by an atomic bomb during the Second World War, Nagasaki presents itself today as an attractive, liveable and distinctly urban city. Surrounded by hills and sheltered harbours, it possesses a character and atmosphere all its own.
Our shore excursion was titled "Experience Nagasaki as the Locals Do", combining a walking tour with travel on the city's public tram network. From the cruise terminal, we walked to a nearby tram stop and boarded one of Nagasaki's iconic streetcars. Travelling alongside local residents provided a glimpse into everyday life and offered views of neighbourhoods that many visitors might otherwise miss.
The tram carried us through the bustling city streets towards the Peace Memorial Park district, where many of Nagasaki's most important historical sites are located.
The Atomic Bomb Museum and Ground Zero
Our first major stop was the Atomic Bomb Museum, reached via the famous One-Legged Torii Gate, one of the city's most recognisable reminders of the bombing. The gate originally stood as a complete structure before the atomic blast destroyed one side, leaving the surviving section as a powerful symbol of both destruction and resilience.
The museum itself left a strong impression. Compared with Hiroshima's museum, Nagasaki's presentation is more graphic and confronting in places. Photographs, personal belongings and historical artefacts vividly illustrate the devastating human toll of the attack. While confronting, the exhibits are also highly educational, helping visitors understand the scale of the tragedy and its lasting impact on the city.
One of the most interesting observations was how Nagasaki's geography influenced the devastation. Unlike Hiroshima, which occupies a broad, relatively flat plain, Nagasaki sits within a valley surrounded by hills and mountains. Looking across a map of the city helps explain why the effects of the explosion differed so markedly. The surrounding terrain channelled and reflected the blast forces, intensifying destruction in some areas while shielding others.
Our guide explained that a surprising number of structures survived, often due to terrain or location. Particularly fascinating were a pair of ancient camphor laurel trees located near a shrine some distance from Ground Zero. Although badly damaged, the trees survived the explosion and continue to grow today. According to our guide, fragments propelled by the blast became embedded within the trees, with traces still visible many decades later.
Peace Memorial Park
We next visited Peace Memorial Park, located near the hypocentre of the atomic blast. The centrepiece is the impressive Statue of Peace, a 30-foot (approximately 9 metre) bronze monument dedicated to world peace and remembrance.
The park differs noticeably from Hiroshima's Peace Park. It feels less formal and less manicured, perhaps reflecting the distinctive landscape of the city itself. Among its memorials is the marker identifying Ground Zero, the point beneath which the bomb detonated approximately 500 metres above the ground.
One of the more unexpected discoveries in the Peace Park was Australia's contribution, the "Tree of Life: Gift of Peace" sculpture. Gifted by Indigenous communities from Maralinga and Yalata in South Australia, the artwork recognises the shared experiences of communities affected by nuclear events. The sculpture symbolises resilience, peace and friendship between Australia and Japan, and serves as a reminder of the importance of working towards a world free of nuclear weapons.
Standing at this site and reflecting on what occurred here in August 1945 is a sobering experience. The knowledge that tens of thousands of people were living and working in the surrounding streets when the bomb exploded gives a human dimension to the history that no photograph or textbook can fully convey.
Nagasaki Today
Nagasaki's modern story is also quite different from Hiroshima's.
In 1945, Hiroshima's population was approximately 300,000. Today it has grown to around 1.3 million residents and is one of Japan's major regional cities. Nagasaki, by comparison, had a population of roughly 200,000 in 1945 and today is home to around 300,000 people.
Part of the reason lies in geography. Hiroshima's flat terrain provides room for expansion, while Nagasaki is constrained by steep hills and narrow valleys. Historically, Nagasaki's economy was built around manufacturing and shipbuilding, industries that have declined or moved elsewhere in Japan. The city also faces the challenge of an ageing population, with around one-third of residents aged 65 or older. These factors make growth more difficult and can present challenges for younger families seeking affordable housing and employment opportunities.
Despite these challenges, Nagasaki remains a remarkably attractive city. The surrounding hills, harbour views, historic neighbourhoods and resilient spirit give it a unique character that distinguishes it from anywhere else in Japan.
Final Thoughts
Our visit to Nagasaki exceeded expectations. What began with a rushed start and a forgotten excursion ticket turned into one of the most interesting and reflective days of the cruise. The city balances remembrance with everyday life in a way that feels both authentic and moving.
While Hiroshima and Nagasaki will always be linked by history, each tells its story differently. Experiencing both cities has provided a deeper understanding of the events of 1945 and the remarkable recovery that followed.
Nagasaki is a city of resilience, remembrance and quiet beauty, and it is certainly a place we would happily return to in the future.
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