Day 26 (Thursday 27th November) Milan to Amsterdam: A Day of Contrasts

Leaving Milan this morning, our journey began with a pleasant surprise. The hotel arranged a taxi that arrived within three minutes and whisked us to the airport in just 20 minutes. A sign on the taxi door had warned that the trip would take 20–30 minutes and cost €68, but our driver managed it in 15–20 minutes for only €22. A small victory to start the day. Another curious observation, the outer modern suburbs look like Melbourne near Albert Park.

Milan’s Linate airport impressed us with its modern, clean, and well-organised layout. Unlike Brisbane, check-in was handled by actual staff rather than machines, which felt refreshingly personal. Security was smooth and efficient, and the terminal funneled passengers through a maze of shops before reaching the food court.

Melissa and I opted for an English breakfast, though it turned out to be more “American” than English. The bacon was billed as crispy, but “chewy and dry” would be a kinder description. Not everything can be perfect, I suppose.

Milan from the air

Boarding our KLM 10:55am flight went smoothly until the captain announced a delay—low cloud cover over Amsterdam had pushed our slot back by 40 minutes. In reality, we waited closer to 30 before takeoff. Once airborne, the views of the Italian and Swiss Alps were breathtaking, a highlight of the day.

The flight itself was uneventful until the descent into Amsterdam. Thick cloud cover hid the ground until we were almost upon it. Full credit to the pilot, who clearly relied on instruments to line up with the runway. The landing was surprisingly smooth given the conditions. We were 30 minutes late.

The Alps

The Alps

Schiphol Airport is enormous—“huge” is the only word that fits. A train station beneath the terminal made getting into the city simple. The fast train delivered us to Amsterdam Central in about 20 minutes, though stepping off the train felt like organised chaos as hundreds of people surged along the platform.

Outside the station, the contrast with Milan was immediate. The air was cold—layer-and-scarf cold—but not bitter. Rain had left the streets damp, and everywhere we turned were canals and bicycles. In Italy,  crazy scooters and cars dominate; in Amsterdam, it’s lunatic cyclists. They fly past at alarming speeds, bells ringing, faces stern or surly if you dare cross their path. Quiet until they sound their bells, they may be more dangerous to pedestrians than their Italian counterparts.

Train Station 

On the train 

Our hotel greeted us with a pleasant reception area and friendly staff. The room, on the third floor, was basic, clean, and comfortable—though not quite as charming as the accommodations we enjoyed in Italy.

One disappointment: the “laundry facility” advertised during booking turned out to be an outsourced service with steep prices (€12.50 for a pair of jeans). Thankfully, the staff pointed us toward a nearby laundromat called the Happy Inn.

Interesting street 

Our search for the Happy Inn led us through streets lined with cannabis shops, strip clubs, souvenir stalls, and eateries—a curious mix of indulgence and tourism. Locals and visitors alike seemed to be enjoying themselves, though we were careful to dodge a few passersby; back in Australia, sniffer dogs wouldn’t take kindly to certain scents.

Later, we wandered into another part of the city, discovering more canals, bustling shops, and excellent food. It was a long day, full of contrasts and discoveries—another adventure to add to the journey.

Amsterdam Canal 

Amsterdam street 

Day 25 (Wednesday 26th November) A lazy day taking in the sights of Milan)

Milan is often introduced as Italy’s capital of fashion and finance, but to reduce it to runways and boardrooms is to miss its heartbeat of the place. Beneath the sleek glass towers and designer boutiques lies a city steeped in history, where art and music have shaped its identity as much as culture.

Typical square 

Late morning tea

Today we plan to take a lazy look at Milan. Cos wants to visit Teatro alla Scala, the world’s most famous opera house. Opened in 1778, La Scala has hosted premieres of Verdi, Puccini, and Rossini—names that echo like sacred chants in the world of classical music. On a walk last next night, we noticed some local markets, if we can find them we intend to take a look. Otherwise nothing planned except a lazy day taking in the sights of Milan.

Today we stepped into the Leonardo3 Museum, taking advantage of a concession ticket thanks to our work in education. Nestled between the Duomo and La Scala, this museum is a treasure trove of interactive reconstructions of Leonardo da Vinci’s inventions. From fantastical flying machines to his whimsical mechanical lion, the exhibits bring Renaissance ingenuity to life.

Leonardo3 Museum

Leonardo3 Museum

Leonardo3 Museum Scale models of bridges, war machines, and hydraulic systems sit alongside modern innovations, showing how Leonardo’s ideas anticipated centuries of progress. Visitors can test digital models, explore multimedia exhibits, and even “operate” his machines virtually. It’s a space that delights both families and curious travellers, and we found ourselves sharing the galleries with several lively ( and well behaved ) classes of Italian schoolchildren—proof that Leonardo’s genius still inspires young minds.

No trip to Milan feels complete without a stroll through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the city’s most famous arcade and Italy’s oldest active shopping gallery. Built between 1865 and 1877 by architect Giuseppe Mengoni, it elegantly links the Piazza del Duomo with Piazza della Scala, earning its nickname as Milan’s “drawing room.”

The Galleria rises four to six stories high, crowned by a magnificent glass-and-iron dome. Its intersecting barrel-vaulted passages form a central octagon, decorated with mosaics of Italian city coats of arms. Revolutionary in its 19th-century design, it went on to inspire arcades across Europe.

Galleria

Galleria

Of course, Cos couldn’t resist the quirky tradition of spinning on the bull mosaic’s testicles for luck—a ritual as amusing as it is enduring. For those with deep pockets (or perhaps a spare kidney to sell), the Galleria offers luxury boutiques like Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Versace, alongside historic bookstores (with recipe book purchased by us) and elegant cafés. Restaurants here serve Milanese classics such as saffron risotto, though the prices are as eye-watering as the architecture is dazzling.

Web image of La Scala theatre 

We also managed a peek at La Scala, Milan’s legendary opera house. Once free to enter, the site now charges admission for both the theatre and its museum. Luckily, the kind ticket office lady allowed us a quick complimentary look at the entrance galleries. Sadly, rehearsals meant that even paying visitors couldn’t see the theatre itself that day—but the aura of La Scala remains unmistakable.

Hot chocolate the right way! 

Our day was punctuated by several delightful stops at street-side cafés: breakfast at one, lunch at another, and afternoon tea at yet another. Cos indulged in a decadent hot chocolate—essentially melted chocolate with just a splash of milk. Reflecting on the day, we realized chocolate had featured prominently in several meals, a sweet thread running through our Milanese adventure.

La Scala La Scala foyer

La Scala foyer

La Scala foyer

There was also a practical reason for so many café visits: in Milan, public toilets are rare and often require payment. Being a customer is the simplest way to gain access, and we happily embraced the excuse for more coffee and chocolate.

From Leonardo’s visionary machines to the grandeur of the Galleria and the cultural gravitas of La Scala, Milan offered us a day rich in history, architecture, and indulgence. And if chocolate became our unofficial theme, well—that’s a Milanese memory we’re more than happy to savor.

A final note about our visit to Milan. From the very beginning, we knew today would be different. Back in Australia, when we mapped out our trip, we deliberately left Milan with fewer plans. Rome and Florence had been whirlwinds—packed with tours, museums, and must-see sights. Milan, by contrast, was meant to be our pause, our chance to breathe.

And so we did. We slept in, letting the morning unfold at its own pace. By the time we wandered toward the historic centre, the city was already alive, but we felt no rush to catch up. Instead, we embraced the Italian way: piano, piano—slowly, slowly.

Parking Italian way of “no worry”. 

There’s a certain joy in moving at half-speed here. Milan invites you to linger over a coffee, to stroll rather than march, to notice the details that a hurried itinerary would miss—the curve of a balcony, the chatter of locals, the scent of fresh pastries drifting from a café.

Today wasn’t about ticking boxes or chasing schedules. It was about savouring the moment, letting the city set the rhythm, and remembering that travel isn’t only about what you see—it’s about how you live while you’re there.

The Italian lifestyle 

Arrivederci, Italia.

Grazie per i giorni pieni di arte, storia e sapori indimenticabili.

Ci hai insegnato a rallentare, a vivere piano piano, e a gustare ogni momento.

Portiamo con noi i tuoi paesaggi, i tuoi caffè, i tuoi sorrisi.

Non è un addio, ma un “a presto.”

Tomorrow, a flight to the Netherlands for something different. Cos is excited, it promises to be the land of Dutch comfort food. 

Day 24 (Tuesday 25th November) From Florence to Milan

 Today we set off for Milan—or as the locals proudly call it, Milano.

The last time we passed through was back in 2008, en route to Venice. That experience, already captured in the blog, left us hoping for a smoother encounter at Milano’s station this time around.

After a late wake-up (a well-earned rest from our Florentine adventures), we recalled last night’s dinner just steps from our hotel—literally 25 metres away. A simple yet perfect meal: one pizza shared between us, still table water, a shared dessert, and a bright limoncello nightcap.

Dinner in Florence 

At the next table sat three travellers from Hong Kong, and soon conversation flowed. For half an hour we exchanged stories—our Rome highlights for their tips on Japan, where we’ll be heading in October 2026. Encounters like this remind us that meeting new people is one of the great privileges of travel.

This morning we checked out of the Mercure and made our way to the station. While waiting, a young woman with a small dog asked for change. We’ve heard that many Mediterranean beggars are caught up in organised networks, reminiscent of the street gangs of Victorian London. It’s a painful reality, underscored by the strong police presence both inside and around the station.

Florence Station

Florence Station

Florence Station

Florence Station 

Our train, Trenitalia 9520, whisked us northward in business class comfort. At speeds of up to 300 km/h, the ride was smooth and quiet—more like an airline cabin than a train. A fitting way to begin our next chapter in Milano.

300km per hours

Italian countryside flashing past

Our journey into Milan began with a smooth train ride—fast, efficient, and surprisingly indulgent.

300kmh

Sitting in business class, we were treated to a small snack and complimentary drinks, the kind of thoughtful service that makes travel feel effortless.

Milano Centrale

Milano Centrale

Milano Centrale

Milano Centrale

Arriving at Milano Centrale, I couldn’t help but notice how much the station had changed since our last visit in 2008. Once a grand but slightly tired landmark, it has now been modernised into a sleek hub that reflects Milan’s role as a gateway to Italy’s north.

A short taxi ride brought us to our hotel, the NH Collection, just outside the historic center. Check-in was seamless, and our spacious room even included a small annex for luggage—a detail that made settling in feel organised and calm.

It took us about 30 minutes to walk from the hotel into the historic core of the city. The stroll was a gentle immersion into Milanese life, with cafés spilling onto sidewalks and elegant façades lining the streets. Eventually, the city opened up into its grand stage: Piazza del Duomo, a vast square dominated by the Cathedral and flanked by the world’s first shopping arcade, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, built in the 1860s in high Victorian style.

Galleria

Galleria

Standing before the Duomo di Milano is like confronting a dream carved in marble. Its spires rise like frozen flames, each adorned with statues that seem to guard the city. Construction began in 1386 and stretched across centuries, blending Gothic ambition with Renaissance patience.

Inside, the cathedral is a forest of stone columns, soaring upwards like trees, while stained glass windows shimmer with biblical stories in jewel tones. Several bishops rest in clear caskets, dressed in ornate robes and silver masks—a reminder of the cathedral’s role as both a spiritual and civic centre.

One of the most moving relics is a nail believed to be from the True Cross, retrieved by Helena, mother of Emperor Constantine. Suspended high in the ceiling, it is marked by a glowing red light, a beacon of faith that has endured through centuries.

Tip for travellers: take the lift to the rooftop. Walking among the flying buttresses, you feel the cathedral’s Gothic engineering up close. The view stretches across Milan’s rooftops, and we were told on clear days,  the Alps shimmer on the horizon.

Just steps away, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II offers a different kind of grandeur. Built in the 1860s, it is often called Milan’s “living room”—a palace of commerce beneath a soaring iron-and-glass dome. Key points include:

• Architecture: mosaic floors, frescoes celebrating Italian cities, and a dome that floods the arcade with light.

• Experience: luxury boutiques like Prada and Gucci sit alongside historic cafés. We paused at Camparino, sipping cappuccinos while watching the steady rhythm of Milanese life.

• Quirk: don’t miss the mosaic bull on the floor. Tradition says spinning on its testicles brings good luck. The constant line of visitors trying it adds a touch of humor to the elegance.

Visiting the Duomo and the Galleria back-to-back felt like reading Milan’s story in two chapters:

• The Duomo speaks of faith, endurance, and centuries of craftsmanship.

• The Galleria celebrates modernity, elegance, and Milan’s rise as a capital of fashion and commerce.

Together, they embody the city’s dual spirit—sacred and stylish, ancient and forward-looking.

After our two-hour guided tour of the cathedral, we ended the day in true Italian style: a bar tucked away from the square, where we enjoyed a Passion Spritz and a plate of pasta. The perfect close to a day where history and everyday life intertwined seamlessly.

Day 23 (Monday 24th November) Exploring Florence

 Florence greeted us with grandeur the moment we stepped into Piazza del Duomo.

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore rose before us, its marble façade of pink, green, and white glowing in the morning light—a structure so ornate and massive it seemed to embody the city’s soul. We lingered over breakfast at a café in sight of the cathedral, savoring a warm spinach-and-cheese slice, pancakes with fruit and cream, and of course, two strong espressos to set the tone for the day.

Breakfast 

Our tickets gave us fast access into the cathedral itself, the archaeological excavations beneath, and the museum nearby. Inside, the vast nave felt simpler than we expected—especially after seeing St. Peter’s in Rome—but still awe-inspiring.

Santa Maria del Fiore

Santa Maria del Fiore

If we hadn’t visited Rome, Florence’s Duomo would have left us utterly speechless. Externally, though, we found it even more impressive than St. Peter’s, with Brunelleschi’s dome towering above the city.

Under the cathedral 

Beneath the cathedral, the archaeological site revealed layers of history: remnants of earlier churches dating back to the 7th century, and even the spurs of a knight from the 13th century.

The Opera del Duomo Museum was another highlight, with relics, sculptures, and even works by Michelangelo on display. One room, steeped in medieval tradition, held relics of martyred saints—including the finger of St. John the Baptist.

Finger of John the baptist

Afterward, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch at a nearby café: roast pork and salad for Cos, lasagne with bruschetta for Melissa, all paired with two glasses of Chianti and finished with coffee.

Ponte Vecchio Duck

Ponte Vecchio Bridge

From there, we wandered through Florence’s leather markets until we reached the Ponte Vecchio. Crossing the bridge felt like stepping into a painting: jewelers’ shops glittered on either side, musicians played softly, and the golden light danced across the Arno River. It was more than a crossing—it was a stroll through centuries of history, with the Vasari Corridor hidden above and the promise of gelato at the other end.

Michelangelo’s tomb

Basilica of Santa Croce

Our final stop was the Basilica of Santa Croce, Michelangelo’s resting place. The Gothic interior was solemn yet inspiring, lined with memorials to Italy’s greatest minds—Galileo, Machiavelli, and more. Michelangelo’s tomb, designed by Vasari, was adorned with figures representing Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture, the arts he mastered in life. 

Christmas Markets of Florence 

After paying our respects, we stepped into the festive square outside, where Florence’s Christmas markets offered mulled wine and European-style bagels. 

Leather Markets 

The evening ended with more leather shopping, a reminder that Florence is not just a museum of the past, but a living, breathing city where history and daily life intertwine.