Day 21 (Saturday 22nd November) visiting the catacombs of Rome

 This morning’s adventure took us deep into Rome’s past—first to the Museo e Cripta dei Cappuccini, then to the city’s oldest catacombs.

We began with a short walk to our meeting point in a nearby square. It took us just 15 minutes on foot, which made us realize that last night’s taxi ride had been a little too long—quite literally, we’d been taken for a ride. Chatting with fellow travelers today, we discovered that this is a fairly common experience with Roman taxis. To be fair, our encounters so far have ranged from good, to okay, to simply expensive.

Photo from web

Traditional monk clothes 

Outside the monastery

Books on display at the monastery

Our guide gathered a dozen of us and led the group on a five-minute stroll to the Museo e Cripta dei Cappuccini. The tour began with an audio guide explaining the history, purpose, and traditions of the Capuchin order.

The highlight was the crypt itself: five hauntingly beautiful rooms decorated with the remains of some 3,700 monks and notable locals. Bones and skulls were arranged in intricate patterns, forming a solemn reminder of mortality. Out of respect, photography was forbidden—so the image accompanying this post comes from the official site of the order.

Tour Italian style black Mercedes van

From the monastery, we boarded two sleek black Mercedes vans and crossed the city in about 20 minutes to reach Rome’s oldest catacombs. Descending 13 meters underground, we explored the second of five levels.

Old catacombs of Rome photo from web

Oldest catacombs of Rome photo from web

Here, we learned that nearly half a million early Christians were buried in niches carved into volcanic rock. The stone was soft when first cut, but hardened once exposed to air, making it ideal for these vast underground cemeteries. By the 10th century, the catacombs were emptied and forgotten, only to be rediscovered in the 19th century and made safe for visitors.

Some tombs still bear marble and clay seals, and a few bodies remain, dating from the 2nd to the 10th century. Our guide kept the tour tightly structured—about 40 minutes of fascinating history, though we would have loved more time to wander.

Tiber River Rome

After resurfacing, the vans dropped us near the Circus Maximus and the Mouth of Truth. From there, we set off on our own exploration.

We found the Tiber River glistening in the sunlight and wandered past buildings that told the story of Rome’s layered history—structures blending elements from antiquity, the Middle Ages, the Renaissance, and even the 20th century. Romans truly reuse everything, and the city wears its past like a patchwork quilt.

After a couple of hours of happy snapping and street wandering, we returned to our apartment.

Circus Maximus

Mouth of truth

Feral cat sanctuary colony

With departure looming tomorrow, we packed our bags and dutifully carried our rubbish 250 meters to public bins—apparently a strict requirement, with an €80 fine if ignored. A quirky Roman detail we hadn’t encountered before, but part of the fun of travel is embracing these local quirks.

We ended the day at Ristorante La Taverna dei Monti, where the staff greeted us warmly. Over a delicious meal, we shared stories with a charming French couple from Paris. Those who know us (Cos especially) know that we never pass up a good chat, and this evening was no exception.

Overall a day of contrasts: from the solemn silence of crypts and catacombs to the lively streets and warm conversations over dinner. Rome continues to surprise us at every turn.

Day 20 (Friday 21st November) a day of exploring Rome

 After a blissfully lazy morning of sleeping in, we found ourselves still recovering from the incredible experiences of yesterday’s Roman Guides tour. If you’re visiting the historic city of Rome, I can’t recommend Roman Guides enough—their small-group approach and attention to detail make every moment feel special.

A heartfelt thank you to Eni and Mada for their hospitality last night. The evening felt less like a formal history tour and more like gathering with old friends, sharing stories and laughter under the Roman sky. It’s these connections that make travel unforgettable.

One of our errands in Rome turned into a little adventure of its own: a trip to the post office. Luckily, it was just around the corner from our apartment, so we set off to learn the ins and outs of Italian mailing rules and to pick up a box.

The language barrier was real, but that’s part of the thrill of travel—navigating new systems with a smile and a bit of patience. Armed with our box and paperwork, we returned to the apartment to figure it all out. Our apartment manager, Mia, kindly stepped in to double-check the forms and even handed us some tape to seal the deal.

With everything packed, we made our way back to the post office, translator app at the ready. We had prepared a handful of simple phrases, and judging by her smile, the clerk appreciated our effort to communicate in Italian.

The box itself was no small parcel—measuring 50 x 40 x 60 cm and weighing in at 6 kg. Sending it via standard mail cost €98 (around $200 AUD). Pricey, yes, but still cheaper than paying for an extra suitcase on the flight. Inside went a mix of clothes, festive Christmas decorations, and a few treasured souvenirs from our time here.

It wasn’t just about shipping belongings—it was about experiencing another slice of daily life in Italy. Even something as ordinary as mailing a package became a memorable chapter in our journey.

After our postal adventure, hunger led us in search of a late lunch before tackling Rome’s iconic sights. We stumbled into Vaccinari, a bustling spot crammed with locals and tourists alike—truly shoulder-to-shoulder dining. The pasta was nothing short of heavenly, so good that we shamelessly used bread to mop up every last drop of sauce. Coffee was, of course, quintessentially Italian—rich and satisfying.

The house wine was simple but pleasant, while the bottled “still” water seemed suspiciously like it had made a detour from the tap. One thing we’ve noticed: free tap water in Italian cafés remains elusive. Still, the food was excellent, and the staff—quirky but warm—made the experience memorable.

Fueled by carbs and caffeine, we set off with Google Maps guiding us to the Trevi Fountain.

Tossing a coin

The crowds were thick but not overwhelming, and we joined the ritual of tossing a coin into the sparkling waters, a promise to return. From there, we wandered toward the

Pantheon 

Pantheon, a colossal marvel nearly 2,000 years old and astonishingly intact. The long lines and looming rain clouds convinced us to admire it from outside rather than wait to 

Temple of Hadrian

Roof of Temple of Hadrian 

On the way back, we ducked into the Temple of Hadrian for a quick look, conveniently escaping a light drizzle.

Chocolate shop

Ducks 

As the rain grew heavier, we found refuge in a café, indulging in coffee and irresistible local pastries. With about 20 minutes of walking left to reach home, we decided not to risk a soaking and headed to a taxi rank. In true Roman fashion, two groups of Italians arrived after us yet managed to snag taxis first—apparently, queuing etiquette is optional here. Eventually, a cab pulled up, and we enjoyed a scenic, circular ride through Rome’s streets, arriving home 20 minutes later, €20 lighter, and thoroughly entertained by the day’s mix of food, history, and small adventures. A great day, we crashed in apartment and prepared for some dinning excellence. 

After a leisurely pause of an hour or two, we wandered just half a block from our stay to Ristorante La Taverna dei Monti, a cozy, family-run spot that immediately made us feel at home. The staff were both friendly and professional, striking that perfect balance of warmth and attentiveness.

We began with a simple yet satisfying spread: cheese, Italian ham, fresh bread, and a half-litre of the sweet house wine. Melissa chose Tonnarelli allo Scoglio, a seafood pasta that arrived with a delightful surprise—a small lobster nestled among the spaghetti. I opted for Straccetto all’aceto Balsamico, tender slices of beef served with a balsamic-dressed salad, accompanied by a side of Roman-style artichokes. Needless to say, the bread didn’t go to waste—we used it to savor every last drop from our plates.

As if the meal weren’t already memorable, the house treated us to two shots of ice-cold limoncello paired with crisp dry biscuits. A small coffee rounded out the evening perfectly. The entire feast came to just €62.50, an absolute steal for such quality and hospitality.

We strolled back home, pleasantly full and a little wobbly from the wine, ending a slower-paced day that still felt wonderfully rewarding.

Day 19 ( Thursday 20th November) The Vatican and other fun

 Today promises to be another full day in Rome as we set out to explore the Vatican. After clocking nearly 20,000 steps yesterday, we’re considering giving our feet a break and hopping in a taxi to reach the holy city-state. Later this evening, at 7pm, we’ll join a small-group night tour with Drunken History Rome, guided by the ever-entertaining Eni and Mada. The theme? Sex & Love in Ancient Rome—a playful dive into the city’s more scandalous past.

Last night’s adventure began with a simple shopping trip that quickly turned into a 40-minute uphill and downhill trek after we took a wrong turn. What should have been a 20-minute walk doubled in length—but the detour rewarded us with a fantastic coffee stop, which, as any traveler knows, is always essential fuel.

At one shop, we were tipped off about Matricianella, a restaurant famed for its authentic Roman cuisine. Reservations are usually a must, but fortune smiled on us: the staff kindly seated us at a charming café-style table on the street. 

Dinner was a treat. We savored a crisp local wine,

Capolemole Bianca (rated 4/5 stars on Vivino), alongside excellent dishes that leaned toward the pricier side. Looking around, it was clear this was a spot favored by well-dressed locals—a sign we’d stumbled into something special.

Adding to the evening’s charm, on the next table were two delightful companions: a young Ryanair flight attendant and a hairdresser close to our age, both from Tuscany and Florence,. Their warmth and conversation made the night even more memorable.

Thankfully, the walk back to our place, taking the direct route, was a breezy 20 minutes this time, rounding off what truly was a delightful Roman evening.

We began the day in a bit of a frenzy. Sleeping in until nine felt indulgent, but after yesterday’s marathon of walking, our bodies clearly demanded rest. The indulgence came at a cost though—our Vatican tour was booked for 11:20, and by the time we were ready to leave just before 10, walking was out of the question. A taxi seemed the only option.

Cue Melissa’s quick thinking: when the taxi number failed us, she cleverly downloaded the local taxi app. We thought we had one booked, but the car that arrived five minutes later turned out to be just passing by. Luckily, the driver was friendly, chatty, and had even spent two years working in Australia. He whisked us to the meeting point with twenty minutes to spare—€20 lighter, but infinitely relieved. Have we been scammed? Don’t care. 

Our guide gathered us along with a dozen fellow traveler's from around the world, and together we slipped past the endless queues into the Vatican.

The Sistine Chapel, located within the Apostolic Palace, is perhaps the most famous room in the Vatican. Commissioned by Pope Sixtus IV in the late 15th century, its walls were decorated by Renaissance masters including Botticelli and Perugino. But it was Michelangelo’s ceiling (1508–1512) and The Last Judgment (1536–1541) that transformed the chapel into one of the greatest artistic achievements in history. The ceiling’s iconic Creation of Adam has become a symbol of human creativity and divine inspiration.

The tour took us through the Vatican Museums and into the Sistine Chapel. Words and photos simply cannot capture the scale or beauty of these places. For anyone with even a passing interest in history, art, or religion, the Vatican is a must-see. It’s a country in its own right, complete with its own army—the Swiss Guard—and police force. According to our guide, Italy even helps fund it. While not as warm and personable as Eni, our Rome guide from the day before, he was impressively knowledgeable and managed the group of fourteen with ease.

Afterward, we stepped into the grandeur of St. Peter’s Basilica. Visiting in the low season was a blessing—the vast, ornate structure felt almost serene. We took the lift partway up the dome (about 15 stories), then climbed another 330 medieval, narrow, and steep steps to reach the top. The outdoor observation platform is the highest point in Rome, and the views were nothing short of spectacular. Descending the stairs was far easier, though still an adventure in itself.

After our awe-inspiring tour of the Vatican, hunger quickly set in. Just beyond St. Peter’s Square we found a small restaurant, the kind that seems to appear exactly when you need it. A crisp Italian pizza and a couple of refreshing drinks were the perfect reward. Honestly, pizzas here are on another level compared to back home in Australia—lighter, fresher, and bursting with flavor.

The staff kindly pointed us toward the nearby taxi stand, and soon we were on our way. At first, our driver seemed curt and all business, which immediately brought to mind the many taxi horror stories we’d heard. Yet appearances can be deceiving. Without fuss or chatter, he navigated the streets efficiently and delivered us safely back to our apartment. The fare? Just €12.50.

It was a reminder of that old saying: don’t judge a book by its cover. Sometimes the most unassuming encounters turn out to be the smoothest part of the journey.

After returning home and freshening up, we set out again for an evening tour with the Roman Guides team, Mada and Eni. We’d already grown fond of this duo—a young, intelligent couple with a real passion for history and for creating memorable experiences.

By 7pm we had strolled to the meeting point, where we joined Eni, Mada, and four of their friends. The tour, intriguingly titled Sex & Love in Ancient Rome, is designed for travelers who enjoy a drink, a good story, and who don’t mind a candid look at history.

With humor and honesty, Eni and Mada guided us through the fascinating world of intimacy, relationships, and social customs in ancient Rome. Nothing was sugar-coated, and that was exactly what made it so engaging. It was equal parts history lesson and lively conversation, blending scholarship with entertainment in a way that felt fresh and unforgettable. We visited 3 locations during the tour and ate pizza followed by cocktails. A wonderful experience certainly memorable and enjoyable to us.

Day 18 (Wednesday 19th November) The Roman forum, Palatine Hill and the Colosseum

Today marked the true beginning of our Roman adventure. Our itinerary was packed with history: the Forum, Palatine Hill, and the mighty Colosseum. To make it even more special, we joined the Roman Guides tour group for an underground exploration of the Colosseum’s lower levels—a chance to step into the hidden world beneath the arena floor.

Getting there from our apartment was quick and easy, but of course we couldn’t resist a stop for coffee and pastries along the way. Instead of standing at the bar like most Italians do (a cheaper option, we’ve learned), we chose to sit and savor the moment. The atmosphere was welcoming, and the staff at the café were as friendly as ever. One local even recommended a few pastries we might not have tried otherwise—delicious surprises that made the morning feel even more authentic.

The kindness of the Italian people continues to impress us. We do our best to show respect in return, greeting people properly and using the few phrases we’ve picked up. In fact, I spent months before the trip listening to an Italian language podcast. While I can’t claim fluency, I’ve found that I can catch the limited gist of everyday basic conversations, which makes each interaction feel more rewarding. ( Last night that basic skill failed us in the heat of the exchange at the supermarket.)

With caffeine, sugar, and a bit of confidence in our Italian, we set off toward the Colosseum—ready to dive into the layers of history waiting for us.

As we explored the bustling tourist hotspots near the Colosseum, we quickly learned to sidestep the usual vendors hawking charger packs and selfie sticks—most backed off with a firm “No, thanks.” But a more persistent group approached with a different tactic: striking up friendly conversation with “Where are you from?” Often, this was followed by the offer of a colourful string bracelet, presented as a token of friendship.

It’s a clever setup. If you accept the bracelet, payment is immediately demanded—sometimes aggressively. We watched several unsuspecting visitors fall for the trap. In our case, a couple of these individuals even followed us, and one threw a bracelet at us when we didn’t engage.

The best strategy? Ignore them completely. Eye contact or conversation only encourages further interaction. Even stating ‘no’ when the inevitable ‘are you from …’ is engagement. We’ve encountered similar schemes in major Mediterranean cruise ports, so it seems to be a recurring theme in high-traffic tourist areas.

Our Roman adventure began with a deep dive into history at the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. From the moment we stepped through the gates, we were awestruck by the sheer scale and grandeur of the ruins—an open-air museum where every stone whispers stories of emperors, senators, and ancient citizens.

Thanks to our all-inclusive tickets from Roman Guides, we had seamless access to the entire archaeological complex. For any history enthusiast, this site is an absolute must. Wandering through the remnants of temples, basilicas, and imperial palaces felt like walking through the pages of a living textbook.

The real highlight? Climbing to the high points of Palatine Hill, where we were rewarded with sweeping panoramic views of Rome’s timeless skyline. From this vantage, the city unfolds in layers—ancient, Renaissance, and modern—all coexisting in one breathtaking vista.

We dedicated a good two hours wandering through the Forum and the surrounding hills, yet it quickly became clear that double that time would have been needed to truly appreciate the scale and history of the site. Thanks to our ticket from Roman Guides, we had seamless access to every corner—including the fascinating on-site museums. Their ticket service made the experience effortless and enriching, and I can wholeheartedly recommend them to anyone planning a visit.

Our Colosseum adventure began just outside the Roma Café, where the staff generally greeted us with warmth and helpfulness. A practical bonus—there are customer restrooms, which is always appreciated before a long tour. What really impressed us was their hospitality: after finishing our coffee and bagels, they kindly let us stay inside while we waited for our tour to begin.

We booked our tour through Roman Guides, with all communication handled seamlessly via WhatsApp. Mada, the organiser, was fantastic—patient with our endless questions, professional, and incredibly helpful throughout the process.

Photo kindly take by Eni of Roman Guides 

The highlight of the day was stepping inside the Colosseum itself, including the underground chambers beneath this iconic site. Our guide, Eni from Roman Guides, was outstanding. He shared detailed insights into the history and architecture without ever overwhelming or talking down to us. We had plenty of time to take photos, absorb the atmosphere, and truly enjoy the personalized experience.

A selfie with Eni 

If you’re a history enthusiast—or simply want to experience Rome in a deeper, more meaningful way—we wholeheartedly recommend Roman Guides. Their professionalism and passion made our visit unforgettable.

Day 17 (Tuesday 18th November ) off the ship, a train to Rome.

Today, we disembarked from the NCL Viva—a bittersweet moment, as it marks the end of nearly two weeks of pure indulgence and adventure. From savouring delicious meals and sampling wines, to enjoying top-tier entertainment each evening, every day felt like a celebration. And let’s not forget the underrated luxury of returning to a freshly made room each night. With no responsibilities and no planning required, we woke each morning to a new country or town just beyond our balcony. It was the kind of escape that makes reentry into the real world just a little harder as now we apparently our cruise card doesn’t work.

We loved the ease of discovering a new destination each day without the stress of logistics—no need to worry about transportation, directions, or unexpected expenses. Everything was prepaid, allowing us to simply relax and enjoy the journey. The tours were both insightful and entertaining, making the experience well worth the investment. With so many memorable moments, it’s nearly impossible to choose just one or two highlights

Most memorably, we connected with some truly wonderful people. Among the standouts were a charming older couple from Southern California who joined us on multiple wine-filled excursions, sharing both their passion and good humor. Equally delightful was a gracious mother and her talented daughter from Ohio, with whom we enjoyed coffee and a leisurely wander through Malta. Our paths crossed more than once, each encounter enriched by the stories and laughter we exchanged.

Culture and people have been highlights, of course we have experienced some functional or rude people, but we can find that at home, so no big deal. 

Our fellow travellers were generally friendly and considerate. Cultural norms of course were observed. 

We thoroughly enjoyed our time aboard the Viva, even with its unconventional layout. The ship’s design clearly prioritises spacious seating areas for relaxation and socialising, which we appreciated. However, this came at the cost of a grand atrium and more traditional walkways—some hallways even cut through restaurants and bars. It was a minor trade-off for the comfort and atmosphere the ship delivered throughout the journey. 

The crew aboard the ship were impressively professional and consistently warm and friendly. It’s truly remarkable, considering their demanding schedules—working 10-hour days, seven days a week, for contracts that last seven to eight months. While they receive complimentary meals and accommodations, and the cruise line covers their flights home at the end of each contract, any chance to explore a port typically comes at the expense of their rest or sleep time. Their dedication and energy made our experience all the more enjoyable.

Exit from the ship went very smoothly. Too smooth, we arrived at train station one and half hours early. We built in “oops moments” in our travel timeline but not needed. The train station is fairly functional, certainly no thrills. 

The train trip was typical European, comfortable and arrived on time in Rome! Termini station was busy and vast, outside station was “interesting” with usual not so nice folks waiting scam anyone foolish enough to engage with them. We walked twenty minutes to our apartment, as we moved away from the station the streets began cleaner, better kept and not being asked buy a bargain from I assume a Nigerian?

The apartment is large and well equipped. Large lounge and kitchen with a comfortable and large bedroom. The apartments are located in old early to mid 19th century building. Inside has been thoroughly modernised except the lift, which was probably installed over 100 years ago. 

 

After settling in we ventured out for lunch and dinner. We settled on Il Girasole mainly because it was  very close and drizzling rain.  We sampled fried meats appetiser and a delicious authentic thin based pizza. 

Our next adventure turned out to be… well, sadly interesting. We stopped by a local supermarket, a small IGA‑style store much like the ones back home in Australia. At the deli counter, my limited Italian skills quickly became apparent. Unable to properly ask for what I wanted, I resorted to pointing. The man behind the counter muttered something to his colleague, and though I couldn’t catch the words, his expression left little doubt that it wasn’t friendly.

Later, at the checkout, Melissa and I tried again with a few phrases in Italian, but the interaction felt just as strained. Both of us walked away with the same impression: at worst, we weren’t exactly welcome, at best she was curt.

It made me wonder—next time, perhaps I’ll switch on our instant translator and tune into the “back channel” of conversation we’re missing. More importantly, it sparked a reflection: if someone in Australia asked for directions in broken English, how would we respond? Would they feel embraced, or would they sense the same discomfort we felt here?

Day16 (Monday 17th November) Cannes and Monaco

Today we head into Cannes France to take a tour to Monte Carlo Monaco.

It will be a long day. Last night we 90% packed up our bags ready for departure tomorrow to Rome. Another tender ride to city of Cannes hopefully better organised than Kotor. 

The tender ride was comfortable and smooth. It was big boat unlike those we used in Kotor. 

The bus ride took us through a Cannes traffic congested streets apart from the trees it could easily been a southern Australian coastal city. The highways were busy too. 

Slowly we travelled through the outskirts of Nice. In the distance, snow capped mountains appeared. 

The landscape changed after Nice, to mountainous with French housing that we remembered from the south of France from 2019. Many tunnels and well maintained roads weave along the ridges. Houses fill most valleys we pass.

After about 90 minutes of travel Monaco comes into view along the coast. It is a pleasant trip.

First stop is the coastal suburb of Monte Carlo where the casino Royal is located. It truely impressive building built in the late 19th century style. Ornate and truely over top in decorative columns and painted panels.

To visit the gambling rooms, 16 Euro per person. The gift shop prices have been designed to cater for the high rollers and beautiful people’s level of disposable cash. Nothing is cheap. Nearby an ornate hotel designed for similar people charge 200000 Euro for a month stay. We had 2 coffees and pastries for 27 Euro, which was nice but not worth nearly $60 Aussie dollars. Overall worth the visit to see a famous place. 

Next stop the Principality’s royal palace. Again a very 19th century building built on earlier buildings. Today is Monaco’s national day, we saw the changing of guard in front of palace. 

Monaco is a beautiful place with many ornate grand public buildings all in the neo/classical style. The buildings are heavily influenced by French, Spanish and Italian 19th century styles. 

Beyond the high culture restaurants, small cafes selling street food are popular. We tried some meat and cheese rolls which were very nice but more economical.

The streets are mixture of narrow and modern streets.  The formula One races are held every May June each year using the streets. Views of the coast and the harbours are everywhere. Super yachts and high end cars are a plenty. This is one of most expensive places to live. Apparently a lot workers drive in from France to work in Monaco hence congestion on the roads. Overall very pleasant place to visit.

In the daylight we can now see Cannes harbour, very pleasant.

Cannes 

Cannes 

The tender back was well organised.